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eine Saite

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tending textiles: lingtse edition

I often end up feeling like the pictures speak for themselves, so that once I’ve added a few images, there’s not much to write. And words feel thin and flimsy these days…. overly manipulated like an old piece of paper gone soft, without stability. Words can be twisted to mean the opposite of what you might have thought they meant, then flipped back suddenly, reappropriated, thrown into the air and caught like a juggler’s sword - all of which is too fast for me, over here chewing on hundred-year-old poems in German. It may explain why writing has gotten harder, why listening to the birds makes more sense than any human speech, why I’d rather share some detail photos of handmade textiles and just say “Look.”

These are woolen textiles known as lingtse, from the region of Zangskar, the southern part of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. Lingtse are capes that women wear and make from panels of handspun, handwoven wool. The resist-dyed patterns and tied fringe are distinctive. The colors and tying of motifs are personalized enough that a young Zangskari woman I knew in Leh recognized a piece I had bought, knowing who made it. I have several of these because I find them deeply stunning, and they were on offer in the market while I was in Ladakh, between 1994 and 2006. I’m conflicted about “collecting” textiles now, but I have them and I wish for them to be seen and to be educational or edifying in some way, so here, look.

I was airing them out on the balcony. The sun highlights the texture of the twill weave, and the patina of use on the folds and seams. When I look closely like this, I can see the handwork, the particular care that went into the steps of spinning, weaving, sewing, and dyeing each piece. I can sense the human touch of the making and the daily use of the cloth. I wish you could smell them - they’ve been vacuumed but not washed, and they hold the smell of Ladakhi farms and livestock. These are not just special occasion garments - women typically wore them to work in the fields, tend animals, or whatever. They were just worn. They each have that feeling, of having been worn for a while. I’m hoping that they were sold because they were old and had been replaced with freshly made pieces, and not out of either desperation or disdain. I don’t really know - the textile marketplace gives me plenty of consternation, but my original motivation for buying them remains true: because I love and admire them, and I intend to treat them with respect.

I sometimes dream of having an educational textile gallery, a space where people can linger and appreciate the skill and wisdom radiating off of works like these. For now, I suppose this platform is that space, and while you can’t touch or smell these glorious Zangskari ambassadors, at least they will be seen and allowed to speak.

(I will add more photos to the lingtse page in the textiles tab, linked above. It will probably grow over time, as the ‘research’, ‘works’, and other tabs tend to do.)

Fungus from the Hoh Rainforest National Park, adding its song

One thing…. in writing about the details of textiles, I’m not turning away from what’s going on in the world. I consider it a way of continuing to focus on what is important, what might be wiped out if imperialism has its way. To some extent, I’m soothing my mind with this focus, if only because I don’t have the right words to speak otherwise. Some people are being very powerful with language, and I’d like to recommend Caitlin Johstone and Holly Truhlar at the moment.

tags: textiles, weaving, dyeing, ladakh, zanskar, lingste, tribaltextiles, decolonize, indigenous
Wednesday 06.11.25
Posted by Tracy Hudson
Comments: 1
 

a chance to share

A woman in Mandvi, Gujarat, ties tiny dots into silk to make a bandhani garchola, a wedding sari with a grid of designs. My photo from 1995.

Some things take time. This is one of the gentle lessons of getting old (which is a very relative term, and I use it knowing that with any luck I have only just begun the process.) You have to learn to wait, and be patient, but without abandoning the effort.

I moved to this town a year and a half ago, and was soon trying to spread the word about what I do, what I can offer, what I'd like to share in the form of teaching or speaking. I proposed textile talks in different settings, without getting much response. Finally I wandered into Maestrale, an import store, and happened to meet the owner. In asking her about some Hmong batik cloth, I found out she is a real textile enthusiast, with a weaving and dyeing background herself, and a strong interest in traditional techniques and cultural context. "We need to talk," I told her. That was last September.

Kutch embroidery pieces from my collection, on display at Maestrale during my talk.

And so it happened that I'm giving a series of textile talks, with slides and collected pieces, at Maestrale this winter. The first one happened on February 1st. The topic was Indian bandhani dyeing and embroidery from Kutch, Gujarat.

A work in progress. The pattern is tied, and the first layer of dye has gone on. My photo from Mandvi, Gujarat, 1995

The dye workshop in Mandvi, 1995

The wonderful thing is that these images, scanned from printed photos and slides, were taken on my very first trip to India in 1994-5. The pieces I shared were also collected at that time. And this is what I meant by "some things take time." I headed to Mandvi, in Kutch, in 1995, to observe and document bandhani dyers for a day, hanging out in their workshop, being fed an amazing and spicy lunch, taking loads of photos and buying finished pieces. My goal was to write it up, or share the information somehow, and I never have until now. That first little foray into textile research lay dormant for over 20 years. Long enough for me to lose track of any notes I took (I was less organized then, and didn't have everything on a laptop and backup hard drive, of course.) But the images can still tell the story, and the technique still fascinates, and it was extremely gratifying to present this information to the group of women who came to Maestrale full of interest.

Some of my collected bandhani textiles, including a garchola, at left, on display at Maestrale during my talk.

An exquisite embroidered festival top I bought in Bhuj in 1995, a block print skirt to go with it, and two bandhani scarves. Slide show in the background at Maestrale.

The fun continues this week, with Lao weaving. Here's the flyer for my whole series this winter - I hope it's legible. I'm really enjoying digging through my textile collection and all my images to create these presentations, and it's wonderful to meet my fellow textile enthusiasts around here.

tags: textiles, textile, bandhani, india, thailand, laos, weaving, dyeing, ikat
Tuesday 02.14.17
Posted by Tracy Hudson
 

update: weaving, dyeing, spinning

So this weaving. I decided to try weaving from the other end, just because I wanted to experience that. Normally this is done to achieve four selvedges, but since I didn't have a nice selvedge at the beginning, it wouldn't matter for this piece. I simply did it to see how it's done, sacrificing a few inches that I might have added to the length of the piece - because I knew I wouldn't be able to close this gap completely, even with plain weave. The sheds are too difficult to open, and I reached the limit of my sword size at this point. I had predicted that I would not get closer than 3 inches, and this shows I was right. Now I have to face cutting it, unless I plan to display it forever like this. Then a bath, and then finishing. Still unsure what this will look like, finally, but it will most likely be what it is - a piece of weaving: flat, rectangular, as long and as wide as it is.

Then there was a natural dye workshop. It's hard for me to resist this kind of thing, especially when it features the expertise of someone like Emily of Local Color Fiber Studio in Bainbridge. I've done natural dye classes before, and they're always a little chaotic, but they produce beautiful images, beautifully dyed yarns, and give me a nudge toward doing more of this myself.

The pot above is made from grapes, gleaned from a vineyard where Emily works part time. They're especially dye-friendly grapes, and they made a beautiful lilac shade on the mohair yarn we were using.

Another attraction of the class: spending a beautiful day by the water in Port Townsend. Just watching the yarns come out of each dyebath and hang in the sunshine was pure sensory delight.

Madder dye, before and after...

I took some fiber to dye, and came home with nice colors - they will look good as stripes in another backstrap weaving, along with the green Targhee I've been spinning during the Tour.

tags: weaving, spinning, dyeing, fiber, spindle, handspun
Thursday 07.28.16
Posted by Tracy Hudson
 

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